With an overall surface of just 13.4 square kilometers, the tiny Agathonisi is the northernmost island of the Dodecanese. Surrounded by a plethora of picturesque islets, such as Kounelonisi, Neronisi, Pita and Stroggyli, it is an unspoiled paradise where time seems to have stopped and you can get close to nature and people, away from the hustle and bustle of touristy destinations. Boats to Agathonisi depart from Patmos, as well as from the nearby Samos, Leros and Lipsi.
Like most Aegean islets, it is rocky and barren, covered only with scarce low vegetation, and is home to several endangered bird species. In ancient times, it was known as Yetousa or Tragea, and it was here that the philosopher Theogitos, a student of Aristotle, was born. Settled first by the Carians and subsequently by the Dorians and the Ionians, it was the site of a important naval battle between the Persians and the Ionians. Due to the harsh conditions, its inhabitants often had to abandon the island over the years, but, eventually, people from Patmos and Fourni settled here in the early 19th century, establishing the settlements that can still be seen to this day.
The oldest and largest settlement is Megalo Chorio, which has been built in a way that makes it invisible from the sea, affording it greater protection from pirate raids. Opposite Megalo Chorio lies another inland village, Mikro Chorio, whose main attraction is the picturesque whitewashed chapel of Agios Panteleimon; built on top of a hill, it offers panoramic views of the island and the sea. However, the first thing you will see upon reaching Agathonisi is the sheltered harbor of Agios Georgios, which welcomes visitors with traditional taverns, rental apartments and a cafe.
The island’s greatest attraction is, beyond the shadow of a doubt, its pristine pebbly beaches. The most easily accessible is probably Spilia, where there is also a cave that has given the beach its name. The secluded Gaidourolakkos is arguably the most emblematic one, though; fringed by large rocks and crystalline turquoise waters, it is best accessed by boat from Agios Georgios. The hike to the beach is somewhat demanding, but highly rewarding if you feel up to it. Other great choices for swimming and sunbathing include Agios Georgios, Vathy Pigadi, Tsankari and Poros.
For a glimpse into the island’s history, you can explore the sights, especially the Archaeological Site of Kastraki. Located on the island’s northeastern coast, close to Katholiko, it is a fortified settlement dating from the Hellenistic times. It used to comprise installations for warships and a shrine, as well as facilities for beekeeping and tyrian purple processing. Little remains today except a cistern and a few remnants of the walls, but the area keeps yielding archaeological findings and there are plans for the construction of a small museum. Some Byzantine domed buildings that probably served as storehouses in the 11th century can also be found near the chapel of Agios Nikolaos, overlooking Vathy Pigadi Beach. As the road network is very limited, hiking is the main way of moving around, and trails pass by yet more quaint chapels.
It would be an omission not to mention the islet’s excellent products, which form the basis of its gastronomic identity. At the taverns of Agios Georgios Port, you can taste such traditional dishes as fresh fish and seafood, fliskoukoudi (split peas), goat or octopus stews, cheeses and a variety of cheese pies. Look out for the local aromatic cakes prepared with mastic fruit.
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