Kasos Island near Karpathos
Location: Kasos
Located between Karpathos and Crete, Kasos is the southernmost of the Dodecanese islands. Untouched by mass tourism, it retains all its authenticity and distinctive flair, captivating visitors with its fabulous beaches, natural beauty, traditional feasts and mouthwatering local delicacies. Thus, it is perfect both for day trips and for longer stays, if all you’re looking for is relaxing in a remote earthly paradise.
Brief history
Little is known about the island’s ancient history, but the first settlers seem to have come from Phoenicia. The earliest traces of human settlement date back to the Late Neolithic times and the early Bronze Age. In the Iliad, Homer lists it as one of the cities that took part in the Trojan War, while, later on, Kasos formed part of the Delian League, an alliance of city-states led by Athens. However, it gradually lost its power to Rhodes over time.
In 1207 AD, the island was occupied by the Venetians, who remained in control till 1537, fending off the attempts of the Knights of Saint John to seize it. Then, it was occupied by the Ottomans, who granted it, however, relative autonomy. Despite its small size, Kasos evolved into a great naval and mercantile power, whose fleet contributed significantly to the 1821 Greek War of Independence. The price for this was very high, though, as in 1824 an Egyptian fleet landed on the island and razed it to the ground. Eventually, Kasos was integrated into the Greek State in 1947, along with the rest of the Dodecanese.
Traditional villages
One of the things that make Kasos stand out is its quaint villages. The port and main town of the island are located in Fry, a settlement with well-preserved mansions that follow the typical architectural style of the Aegean islands. One of the best things to do in Fry is to take a stroll in Bouka, the old pirate harbor which can be found within walking distance from the modern port and now serves as a mooring place for colorful fishing boats.
Agia Marina is another great place to visit. It was the medieval capital of Kasos and has been linked with the 1824 Massacre, as this was where most of the island’s defenders were gathered. It is a traditional settlement with narrow alleys adorned with impressive neoclassical buildings, which still reflect the prosperity of the local skippers in the previous centuries. Walking from Fry to Agia Marina is pretty easy, as the distance between them is just 500 meters, and the hike is highly rewarding, as Agia Marina offers some of the best sunset views on the entire island.
Another village with picturesque mansions decorated with nice columns is Panagia, which has developed into a seaside resort. It stands out for the Church of the Dormition of the Virgin Mary, with its mosaic floor and ornately carved wooden altarpiece, as well as for a singular complex of six adjacent chapels built to protect the area from the spirits that used to haunt it. On the 15th of August, the feast day of the Dormition of the Virgin Mary, this village hosts the biggest panigyri on the island, which is definitely worth attending for a unique glimpse into the local customs.
Visitors can also hike to Arvanitochori, which lies 3 kilometers from Fry and houses a small Folklore Museum, as well as the Traditional Mill of Agios Dimitrios, which exhibits a variety of old household objects and agricultural tools, taking travelers on a journey through time.
Sights
Despite being a relatively unknown island, Kasos is home to some impressive points of interest.
• The Ancient Acropolis: The Ancient Akropolis is located on top of a hill in the area of Poli. Amongst its ruins, one can still see the remnants of its wall and a paved road that led to the ancient port of Emporios. Portable findings from the Ancient Acropolis are now on display at the Archaeological Museum of Kasos.
• Ancient Tombs: Three tombs dating from the 5th or the 6th century AD can also be found in the location of Hochlakoulia, on the road from Fry to Emporios, near an early Christian basilica. They are relatively well-preserved, and, among the ruins of the burial chambers, one can see granite columns, mosaic floors, early Christian inscriptions and a tablet dedicated to Asclepius. They probably formed part of a nearby paleo-Christian settlement.
• Archaeological Site of Helatros: Located on the southern coast of Kasos, near the tiny cove of the same name, this archaeological site consists of four Minoan settlements which testify to the island’s close relations with Minoan Crete.
• The Archaeological Collection: One of Fry’s traditional residences houses a small yet interesting archaeological collection with local findings dating between the prehistoric and the Roman times. Besides the ancient pottery, coins and inscriptions, it also exhibits Minoan findings from the ancient settlement of Helatros, as well as objects and weapons associated with the 1821 Greek War of Independence.
• Nautical Museum of Kasos: Created on the basis of a private collection, this small museum aims to familiarize visitors with the island’s rich maritime history. One can see sextants, compasses, and other nautical objects from ships of different eras. There are also interesting models and paintings.
• The Municipal Library: The Municipal Library is situated in Fry, inside an imposing neoclassical building that never fails to impress, and contains a plethora of not only literary and historical books, but also archival material related to the island.
• Ellinokamara Cave: On the southwestern part of Agia Marina village lies Ellinokamara Cave, one of the most significant places of worship in the Dodecanese between the Mycenaean and the Hellenistic times. A remarkable feature of Ellinokamara Cave is the monumental 5th-century BC wall barring its mouth. Excavations have also revealed a large number of coins, stone tools and large pithoi.
• Sellai Cave: Hiking enthusiasts will definitely enjoy visiting Sellai (or Stylokamara) Cave, situated 2 kilometers southwest of Agia Marina. The path that leads to the cave is rough and somewhat hard to discern, but the trek is rewarding, as it leads to a spectacular 30-meter-deep and 8-meter-wide cave adorned with stalactites and stalagmites.
• The Chapel of Agia Kyriaki: Standing at an altitude of 600 meters above sea level, on the island’s highest point, this chapel affords stunning views of the Aegean Sea.
Beaches
Around Kasos Island, visitors will find plenty of unspoiled beaches with pristine azure waters. The most popular beach is Emporios, which is easily accessible as it stretches close to Fry. Sheltered from the wind, it is lined with nice taverns and cafes operating all day long. Ammua, a small sandy beach with a canteen and glorious sunset views is another excellent choice. Other than these two, there are a series of secluded pebbly beaches like Antiperatos, Helatros, Avlaki and Trita which are not organized and are perfect if you seek absolute peace and quiet. The latter are only accessible by boat or via hiking trails.
Activities
- Visit Armathia Islet: The magical Armathia is the biggest of the islets that surround Kasos. Today it is uninhabited, but it used to play an important role in the local economy in the past. Take the time to visit it and swim in the crystalline turquoise waters of Marmara Beach, which ranks among the very best in the Dodecanese. Karavostasi and Apopantoula are two other charming beaches you can choose for a relaxing dip into the sea while in Armathia. A couple of boats operate routes from Kasos to Armathia on a daily basis.
- Attend a traditional festival: Kasos is particularly renowned for its panigyria, feasts that reflect the local musical and dancing tradition in the best possible way. Organized on the occasion of religious feasts, they attract the population of the entire island, and visitors are more than welcome to attend. If you chance upon a panigyri, you can expect bountiful singing and dancing to the sound of the lyre and the laouto till the early morning hours, as well as copious quantities of wine and local delicacies served for free. The most popular festival takes place on the 15th of August, but there are several more between the 17th of July and the 14th of September.
- Explore the island by hiking: Covering an overall surface of 64 square kilometers, the island of Kasos is mostly mountainous and characterized by barren, rugged heights. A great part of the trails that used to connect the various pastures and agricultural units are still well-preserved, lending themselves for hiking expeditions. The two most beautiful routes are the one connecting Fry with the Monastery of Saint George in Hadies and the one that goes all the way up to Prionas, the island's highest point. The 7 available routes compose a 50-kilometer-long network that passes from at least 74 points of interest. The sense of freedom and strength you feel walking hundreds of meters above the Karpathian Sea makes hiking in Kasos an experience not to be missed.
- Do watersports: Kasos is a great place for anyone who loves watersports such as sailing and windsurfing. If you’re into scuba diving, the island won’t disappoint you either, thanks to its rich marine life and submerged antiquities.
Gastronomy
Though small, Kasos boasts a variety of top-quality products that form the basis of many unique recipes. We recommend trying the Kasos pilaf, which is made with goat or sheep broth and cinnamon, the local pasta which is served with caramelized onions and the creamy sitaca cheese, a pilaf made with cuttlefish ink, spiny chicory in brine, as well as the various sweet and salty pies. If you have a sweet tooth, don’t forget to sample moschopougkia, a kind of almond-stuffed dessert. In the traditional settlements, you will find plenty of taverns serving all of the island’s authentic recipes.
Accommodation
In terms of accommodation, there are rooms to let, most of which are concentrated in Fry. A few rooms are also available in Emporios, Arvanitochori, Agia Marina and Panagia.
How to get to Kasos
Kasos has a small municipal airport receiving direct flights from Karpathos and Sitia. However, the easiest and most popular way to get there is by far the ferry. During the high season, it is connected with Karpathos by ferry 3 times a week, while water taxis operate routes between the two islands on a nearly daily basis. It also receives ferry connections from Piraeus in Athens, Heraklion and Sitia in Crete, as well as from some other islands in the Dodecanese.
