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My first ever visit to Pelion.
Date: May 10, 2008
Pelion Review:
The following is an account of my first ever visit to Pelion. This area is very special to me and I have returned a number of times since.
Three and a half hours out of Manchester saw the Air 2000 A321 preparing to descend on to the island of Skiathos. The island and its very short runway were now clearly visible below us. We hit the runway with a jolt, taxied a short distance then full on brakes. Passengers for Skiathos were directed to passport control while those remaining moved to the departure lounge to await the final leg of the journey to Volos in the Pelion region.
After a very short time we were airborne again and soon landing at Volos. The airfield there is massive and we were met at the runway by a luxury transport vehicle for the journey to the terminal building. A number of fine looking buildings were visible from the runway but not the terminal building. After travelling some considerable distance we arrived to this magnificently appointed building which houses passport control and all other facilities of Volos International Airport. It is difficult to find words that could adequately describe the splendour of the arrivals lounge and baggage reclaim.
From the airport we made good time along a section of motorway towards the city of Volos passing through large areas of flat lands growing vegetables and other crops. Turning east now from Volos the road quickly began winding and climbing steeply. At various points we could look back to magnificent views over Volos and beyond.
As the road wound ever higher we passed through an area where snow still lay 3mts thick to both sides of the road and this was 9th May.We passed though the village of Hania and then on past the entrance for the winter ski resort. Above us the snow on the mountain peaks glinted in the sunshine and soon we were descending on the eastern slopes of Mt. Pelion. We were winding down now through acres of apple orchards all in blossom, a wonderful site. Could this be Greece's secret orchard? Finally we were arriving to the resort of Agios Ioannis and our base for two weeks the hotel Eleanna.
Agios Ioannis lies below the steep wooded eastern slopes of Mt. Pelion. Along the edge of the sand and shingle beach lie a number of Tavernas, several bakeries and small shops including an excellent fruit shop. The harbour lies on the north side and beyond that is Plaka beach. To the south side separated by the river lies the famous Papa Nera beach. This is a long crescent mainly of sand having two Tavernas and a backcloth of mature trees.
The next day was given over to checking out Agios Ioannis and to lying on Papa Nera beach. The following day Sunday we decided to walk to the nearby village of Agios Dimitrios. I say nearby but the roads out of Agios Ioannis all wind relentlessly upward. There are mule tracks used also by walkers that cut off the corners as the road zigzags upwards. These are shorter but steeper than walking the roadway. We decided to walk the roadway and after what seemed like an eternity finally collapsed into a chair at a café at Agios Dimitrios. It was at about this time that we decided that to continue on upwards towards the snow line might not be such a good idea. The ice cream and lemonade was most welcome as was the shade from the hot sun. As we sat there another group of English tourists staggered in having come by the same route. After a tour of the village we returned to Agios Ioannis for lunch and an afternoon on the beach.
The following morning we set off on foot for the coastal village of Damouhari. This can be reached by roadway, mule track or a combination of both. We set off up the mule track from the rocks at the southern end of Papa Nera beach. At the point where the mule track meets the road we decided to continue along the roadway. A short walk brought us to the sleepy little hamlet of Damouhari with its quaint little harbour small shingle beach with another shingle and stone beach just around the bay. It had a number of Tavernas and most important the ice cream for a relaxing day. On the south side a small river runs from a ravine into the sea and is crossed by a footbridge to where a steep mule track continues along the coast. Looking up the ravine from the bridge a waterfall cascades from the left. Tread carefully as you cross the bridge as some of its boards are a little delicate. Damouhari beach
Tuesday was to be a day of rest spent on Plaka beach and might have been so but for the intervention of a passing snake. I was lying on my side on the beach reading when I felt something touch the back of my neck. I put my hand there first before looking up and just in time to see the snake disappearing into the shrubbery at the edge of the beach.
I had by this time decided to hire a car as the best way to see more of Pelion. I obtained a quote from the first company of 265 euros for three days with a class 'A' car. The second company gave a printed sheet indicating that a class 'A' car was available for five days for 171 euros. When I returned later to book it out came the calculator and I was told that with taxes etc. the charge was 220 euros. When I protested that I had been quoted 171 euros and got up to leave I was quickly called back and advised that I could have 20% discount. Out came the calculator again and I was advised that the figure was now 162 euros a price I quickly accepted. This is apparently some strange form of Greek mathematics.The car was a Renault Twingo , a small car not available on the British market and one I found very comfortable with very good handling on the winding roads. My only complaint was the reflections of the bulkhead onto the windscreen for which I shall blame the French.
On Wednesday, the first day with the car we set off for the village of Tsangarada to see the giant 1000 year old Plane tree in the village square.
From there we moved on to the coastal village of Milopotamos. As we arrived we were greeted by a spectacular view of aqua blue waters and white beach from the car park perched on the cliff high above it. The steps down are easy with good views and there is a bar at the bottom.
A high cliff divides two separate beaches here with a connecting archway between. The beaches here are very popular with swimmers and visited by many tour coaches, a place not to be missed.
On Thursday we headed around to the south side of the mountain and the village of Millies. It seemed touristier than I had expected but a very nice church in the village square is well worth a visit. It is decorated with frescoes including one entitled 'The Judgment' that takes up an entire wall. From the square we walked the mule tracks down to the railway station below the village but the trains were not running at this time.
Continuing on from Millies we headed down toward the Pagasitikos Gulf and the coastal resort of Kala Nera. A long crescent of sand and shingle is separated from the road and Tavernas by a line of Popular trees, Plane trees and Eucalyptus trees. A very popular resort for walkers due to the easier and less steep access onto the western slopes of Mt. Pelion when compared to the steep access from the east. We returned by the way we had come stopping at one point to allow passage to a herd of goats. We called in on the way to the beach at Lambinou but it was 6.0pm by now and the beach was in shade. Seemed a pleasant little cove all the same.
On Friday morning we drove up the mountain road through the village of Hania and on to the village of Makrinitsa clinging to the mountainside above Volos. There are fantastic views from the village square over Volos and a nice square with a little church and hollow tree. We stocked up on the Origano etc. from the many stalls lining the road from the square to the car park.
We headed back toward Hania and up towards the winter ski centre. We parked the car on one of the many large car parks that are empty at this time of year and started to walk up to the ski centre. It was a strange feeling wearing shorts and tee shirt to be plodding uphill through deep snow. A loading shovel had started to move the snow at the lower end from the car park and a Land Rover was struggling without much success to climb the hill to the base station.
The temperature at the base station was showing 20deg when suddenly I spotted 1 euro and 5 cents lying in the snow, my lucky day. Picking this up gave a reminder of just how cold it was under foot.
We headed now back to the car and down the east side of the mountain towards Zagora. As we passed through the apple orchards we noted that the blossoms we had seen just a week ago were now gone. At Zagora we took pictures of the church and on the main street I picked up bananas from outside a general store and stepped inside to pay. I stepped through the doorway into total darkness and as I did so I felt the floor just inside the door sink down under my weight. Had I been eating too much delicious Greek food or was the floor perhaps overdue for repair? As my eyes slowly became accustomed to the dark I spotted first a pair of eyes and then I could just make out the owner sitting in a corner. I paid for the bananas and headed back to the car. Zagora is the centre for the apple and fruit industry which was apparent from the number of pick-ups and trucks lining the village streets. From here it was on to the beach at Horefto for the afternoons sunbathing.
It was more pleasant today as for the first time in a week a good breeze was coming in off the sea and the waves were breaking on the beach.
On Saturday we made a return trip to Damaourhari then on to the lovely little mountain village of Kissos.
As we were peering through a window of the locked church we were spotted by the preacher who opened up for us.
After the rustic exterior of the church we were quite taken aback by the splendor of the interior. Beautiful painted ceilings, gold carved screens, and it is really well worth a visit.
For our last day with the car we made the one and a half hour trip south to the resort of Milina and as soon as we arrived we knew that we would be returning to Pelion and this was to be our next base. The landscape had changed as we drove down from the lush and mountainous northeast to an area much flatter but equally lush and green with many wild flowers.
Attractive beaches and waterfront, views of the distant hills, constant coming and going of the little boats and fishermen selling the catch from the roadside.
We visited the nearby attractive little hamlet of Horto before returning once more to Agios Ioannis.
The car was due for return now but we had one excursion remaining, a daytrip by coach to Meteora. It was to be a very long but memorable day to visit three monasteries at this unique site. It was a guided trip from 7am to 8.30pm with a really good lunch included.
We had also the twice-weekly 'Greek Night' at the Taverna Akrogiali. These were nights not to be missed, nights we will always remember.
More Information about Pelion: click here
Review Posted by:
Derek
Pelion Topic: General
Location: Pelion
Times Viewed: 128
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