While I have no doubt Piraeus has a beauty of its own, but an experience three years ago has put me off for good.
Before embarking on a hop across the Cyclades, we decided to stay overnight in Piraeus to get the early morning ferry. Sadly there was only one ferry a day at the time and, with a late flight from the UK, staying overnight in the port was unavoidable.
We booked a cheapish hotel (I think it was 85 Euros a room) within a 10-minute walk of the ferry and it looked OK on the website. How naive we were. Even when we arrived at reception it didn't look too bad. You know a little dog-eared and worn, but just about acceptable.
Once we got to the room, past the ripped and stained carpets and the hole in the outer skin of the door, we got a little twitchy. And, once inside we weren't exactly ecstatic. Everything about it was dirty and unkempt.
I know we could have walked straight out, but it was gone midnight when we arrived and as the ferry sailed at 8am, we decided to just stick with it for the few hours we had left.
We slept fully clothed on top of the bed covers and managed a few hours despite the constant noise in the street outside. We opened the windows because we thought switching the air-conditioning would surely wake the cockroaches.
But morning came and as the mould-blackened shower only had two curtain rings, an unsatisfactory wash at the sink had to do - not a good start to the day. Nevertheless, we were soon on our way to the ferry and looking forward to our first stop, Syros.
I accept I can't be too critical of Pireaus, after all I was only there for one night and most probably in the wrong place. I'm sure it has some redeeming features, but I felt I needed to write this as a warning to anyone who finds themselves in a similar position.
If we learned anything from our experience that night it was, don't go too cheap and make sure you get a recommendation before you book.
Fortunately it didn't spoil our holiday, but suffice to say we stayed in a lovely hotel in the centre of
Athens with rooftop views across to the Acropolis on our return trip home - and it was only another 20 Euro per night more than the hotel in Piraeus. A real bargain.
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